Home is…
When Latin Lover went out on the streets of New York in search of the best Dominican restaurant, we soon realized the best dishes didn’t come with a maître d’. You have to know people. You need connections. If you want unparalleled Dominican food, go home. Home is where those recipes—the ones that have been passed from generation to generation—continue to live on. The place where all the magic happens has a table reserved only for the most privileged.
My golden opportunity came when I met Guiselt Jimenez-Carballido over a few mezcalitos in a Mexican event at Obra Negra (Casa Mezcal). She and Ignacio her husband invited me to try a family staple—Rabo Encendido. Guiselt, along with her mother, Teresa, and grandmother, Idalia, welcomed Latin Lover into their home and revealed the secrets behind the special dish. Rabo Encendido, which literally translates to Burning Oxtail, is a bony cut of meat slowly cooked to tender perfection. “When mom was a little girl,” remembers Teresa, “they wouldn’t eat the tails. These were usually thrown away. Today you can find them, but they’re not cheap.”
I was under the impression that encendido stood for spicy but it actually signifies that the meat has been marinated in liquor—Brugal Rum to be precise. “Ron Brugal can be very dangerous,” says Teresa, “because there can only be two outcomes: you either fight or settle.”
Even if Guiselt—who is expecting her first child—is a vegetarian, she still can’t shy away from this special dish. “Well, this and Grandmother Idalia’s caldo de gallina (chicken broth), which is given to women who have just given birth as an energizing elixir,” says Guiselt.
Idalia and her daughter Teresa migrated to Washington Heights—where Guiselt grew up— in 1976 from San Francisco de Macorís, a small town located in the northeast portion of Dominican Republic. Today, they are part of three generations—almost four—who are spread between Brooklyn Heights, New Jersey, and Washington Heights. They get together every Sunday to share their passion for cooking and homemade meals. “My husband says we’re always looking for an excuse to cook and have a party,” laughs Teresa.
In all honesty, who can blame them?
Rabo Encendido
“Burning Oxtail” (serves 4-6)
(Serve with rice, beans, avocado slices, or salad)
Ingredients:
2 oxtails cut into 1 to 1 1/2 inch pieces
To season the meat:
2 tablespoons pureed garlic
(puree with water in a blender)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/4 cup soy sauce
Salt to taste
Black pepper to taste
Oregano to taste
Add to the almost-cooked meat:
1 red onion (cut in large slices)
1 green bell pepper (cut in large slices)
1 red pepper (cut in large slices)
Bunch of cilantro (Recaito)
Aged Dominican Rum (preferably Ron Brugal)
How to...
Before cutting the oxtails, wash under cold water and pat dry. Mix the seasonings and rub on meat. Let meat stand for at least 2 hours in the refrigerator. Cook the oxtails in a large pot at medium heat for at least 1 hour and 30 minutes until tender. Add the rum to the pot little by little. If you notice it starts to evaporate, add a cup of water and cover until the meat is fully cooked and tender. Just before the meat is cooked, add the onion, peppers, and cilantro. Cook for another 10 minutes. Add another splash of rum and it’s ready to eat!
